SOME ONE OPEN THE INTERNET

I had come to a conclusion that someone can switch the internet off in Libya, Tunis is a totally different ball game. I went into a cyber café (They call them Publinet) and tried to hook up my laptop. It took me almost an hour to figure it out with the help of the guy at the café, the whole system is behind a proxy server. I could only enable the browsers and associated applications, seems like the amount of control on the internet was not getting much less

So who wins Gadafi or Bin Ali

Well for sure Mubarak has lost this race, despite the huge difference in population it didn't help him win this one. He will have to settle for at best third place, although I might explore that one as I keep on traveling. The race I am talking about is the presence of the pictures of the president in public places. No shop, even small corner stands, goes without the picture of Gadafi in Libya or Bin Ali in Tunisia. I guess Gadafi might have an little more edge with more pictures in the street. He also practically has his slogans written on every wall in the street. These slogans are very wise at times, but mostly hilarious, and as the Arabic saying goes "Sharr elbaleyaah maa youd7eek", or the worst of the ills is that makes you laugh.

Back to Tunisia

Well I guess I was off to Tunisia, I had been there before and certainly enjoyed my experience them. I was attending the WSIS and although that left me very little time to go around, I enjoyed the company I was with and certainly got a flavor of Tunisia. This time I was hoping to get a better opportunity. I was wrong though, but nonetheless still enjoyed the trip.

I knew where I was going, Hotel Excel was where I stayed last time around, and it was right on the main avenue in the centre ville. After checking in, I start right away at work, when to see a gentleman at a UN agency. After finishing work, and arranging some meetings for the following day I went to the centre ville to have a bite and access the internet.

Someone switch on the internet

I was typing away on my email at 12 midnight in Libya. I suddenly got cut off. I though it might be a temp thing but it stayed a little longer then I was hoping. After asking, I got to the modem and tried the reset button. It didn't helpp. After more the 15 mins I gave up and the guy pointed out that this is common and it could come back and could not come back. I guess it choose not too.

In the morning I was thinking to check email at the hotel and go to the airport a little later than the 2 hour mark, or go on time. I guess the guy sitting on the internet decided that for me. It didn't come back. So I though I would go to work in the airport. I had caught a glimpse of an internet outlet there. After going into the airport waiting area (and passing the reminder of being in the arab world) I went to the internet outlet, to my surprise it was also down. They said it isn't coming back. I guess the best conculsion I can make is that they guy sitting at the internet switch for Libya, decided to take the day off, and since it is a "3ohdaah" he switched it off.

REMINDER: THIS IS THE ARAB WORLD

Well my overall experience in Libya was not very bad, maybe because I didn't have to interact too much with people, especially the government. I took a ride to the airport, the driver was a jet engine engineer. He was talking about how opportunities were very scarce in Libya, and how it was not very welcoming. After the talk, I stepped into the Tripoli "3alamy" airport. Again, I was in a laughing mode. After doing the ticketing, and as I was entering the passport office, the officer looked at me when I handed the passport and told me to go to the officer I just passed at the entrance. I went back to him and asked is there something he needs to do. He said no, so I went back to the first guy. He looked at me and told me that I was so impolite that I was whistling approaching him and for that I will have to wait before I get in. Although I didn't notice that I was whistling from the first place, I can't see what is wrong with it. I went and sat down, thinking about how stupid I was not to get into this place with my Canadian Passport.

He came up to me and said that I was whistling, and that is impolite, I indicated my lack of recall of doing so. He also pointed out that there is another guy in the booth before him that needs to stamp it first and he wasn't there. That was a more acceptable argument, although I think the first one still holds. I was really annoyed with it, as if he wants to punish me because I have been a "bad boy".

I got passed the passport check, and came to the customs. Replying to his inquiry about money I have I stated the amount I had and he asked for the document for them. I pointed out that I was not given a document coming in. He said you must have and now I have to take the money. I kept my cool and stated that I was not given anything and that he should go and ask his colleagues. I guess his main target here was to make me remember that this is the Arab world, and I have to come to terms with reality. Development, progress, that is all just balony. This is the truth.

I guess he got called to do something else so he let me go, which again is even worse than the first part. Yes, I got to go and forget all about this, but if it was illegal he has just let someone get away with it.

Can't you follow directions.

I had a few meetings initially arranged, but none were materializing. Finally there was some potential, the lady at the UNDP directed me to the ministry of education for a meeting. The security gave the taxi driver directions and he assured him he understood everything and took off. I discovered later that he had no clue where he was going. I actually had to give him directions, that were extremely useful to him despite I had no clue about the city. I guess my fancying taxi drivers has taken a great setback through this experience.

Give me an EAR

Well I was waiting to meet a gentleman that I was sent to. He is a director in a higher educational institute. As I waited in his office, a professor who was also there started a conversation. He was Libyan, just returned from Germany not too long ago. I was watching my words, you really don't want to be going on a wrong step here. As we started to discuss issues, politics (An Arab favorite had to pop up). We exchanged ideas in general, then someone came in the room and left some papers on the desk. That was supposed to be what he had to do, but he never did leave the room as such. He kept standing there, listening attentively to the discussion. I don't think he was listening to learn, or give his opinion. Probably listening to make sure that nothing "wrong" is said, something he needs to make corrective action against. It was starting to be uneasy to have this situation evolve. I kept on the same tone and topic, although remained to watch my words and make more reference to Egypt, then anything else. Very disturbing to have such an atmosphere, where freedom of expression is not allowed.

Again I change my impression on Libya

My impression of Libya and its people had undergone a great change when I was in Canada. I was really impressed with most of the Libyans I have met and they changed the perception I had of the people of Libya. This experience was also one that gave me a different dimension. Women driving, that was something I though was not to be found in this land. It does. I think I now perceive them in a more liberal mindset.

Sabrathah

I finished my meetings at 3, and decided to take a quick trip to the ancient city of Sabrathah. I had heard about it and it was recommended to see. I stopped a cab in Tripoli, and he said he is not able to go there, but he suggested to take me to the transport station where I can find a ride. Along the way he pointed a tourist bus dropping people at the old city and souk. I decided to pop in there on my way back.

I took a 7 passenger car, and at 4 it took off to Sabrathah. Some of the people who recommended going said it was a close as 20km and others put it at 70km. The later was more correct. The hour long drive was ok, but the places along the road seemed so plain, and lacked vibrant life. As I stepped out in Sabrathah, the driver pointed out a road to the historical site and said it’s a short walk. Since I never mind walking, I started down the road. Nothing was special about the road, and it took about 30mins to stroll down.

I came to the entrance, and although I am against capitalism and how it spoils beauty, I found myself disappointed. The was only two small kiosks, and really no life around the site. If this was in any other place you would have found industries revolving around this place. I walked in and asked for a ticket, since the museum was already closing I only got a pass for the ruins worth 3 Dinars. The gentleman at the ticket booth asked me if I had a camera, answering yes he asked me to purchase a ticket for the camera worth 5 Dinars. I thought, there must be someone from Egypt high up in the ministry of Tourism who suggested this crazy setup. I asked for a map, he said they had none, but I can find one at the kiosks outside. I bought the map and entered.

Sabrathah is a sight of Roman ruins. There was no information of any sort available to make my stay of any use. Afterall I come from Egypt, where this is probably a common sight. However, the seaside location was nice. As a matter of fact, there was a presidential cottage from the time of the king in the complex. I walked around took a few pictures and after almost 45mins was ready to head back out. I did feel sorry for the state of the place and how this resource is so badly kept and utilized (Despite my socialist ideologies). The irony here is that I read a slogan made by AlGadafi that if Libya puts focus on tourism it would be the best place on Earth, nice way to focus.

When I mentioned to Fadel the following day that I went Sabrathah, as well as his colleagues, they were impressed with how quick I got there. However, when I gave the indication that I was not really impressed, Fadel seemed to be offended. I tried my best to work on improving that, but coming from Egypt, I would probably find things older if I dig in front of the building I live in. It is like asking someone totally stuffed to taste some food, and be overly excited about it.

I took the ride back, and walked to the old city. The walls of the old city were relatively high in some places, and had several entrances. I opted not to improvise (that is even surprising to me) and walked all the way around to the side facing the sea. I walked into the small streets of the old city and found a lot of gold shops. I ended into the Green Square. Walking back into the market, it resembled somewhat Khan Elkhalili, but less crowded and with a little more space. I sat to a coffee shop in the old area and did some work to summarize my day. As night started to come I headed back to the hotel. I hired a cab and he took me back. The place was actually very close to the hotel, but as the saying goes "A stranger is blind even if he can see".

Tripoli, huge potential no vision

Well Tripoli is an interesting city, actually I think it is falling far behind its potential. The city could be a very nice mix between a metropolitan area, and a heritage and cultural city. With the sea at view it could make for a wonderful business hub. I think that this is not something planned for the future of this city. One of the most amazing things that I haven't seen in a while are open spaces for normal people to use. This is something unseen in Egypt. I guess this is a good thing, especially that certain areas are oriented to families. This is something we need to do more off, Other then getting a chair and sitting on a bridge, don't think there is a place you can stay at ease with the Nile without having to pay for something.

So is he a genious or what

Walking about, driving around, or simply staying put you can't miss slogans and quotations from AlGhadafi. They are absolutly everywhere. As much as I really was impressed with the guy, I grew more fond of him as I read the words of wisdom on walls and billboards. He is an absolute genious. My visit has solidified my first impression of the guy.

Think Green

Well I stepped out of the plane and took the airport shuttle to the terminal. It read "Matar Tarablous Al3alamy" Although it might be the best effort of Tripoli International Airport, it really got me thinking in a different direction.

As I started to walk into the terminal, suddenly everything was green. That statement is usually associated with trees and grass, but in this case it was paint. Green paint in all shades was the only paint they used. I guess it was a welcoming reminder of the whole new concept of green.

I was waiting in line with others, and the passport officers were doing nothing really. They left all the people in line and when they felt like doing something they would call on a passenger to come forward. A gentleman in the line appeared to be furious, although he kept it to himself and mubbled a few words. I asked him, why he is complaining after all just go to any public worker in Egypt and you would probably see something of the same. He said that the passport officers in Egypt don't do that. As if we ask for quality of service, we just complain and that is it. In Egypt it is just the sheer numbers that make it a must to move people out the system. Here they get a plane every couple of hours, so why rush.

I got the passport stamped and was asked if I had currency, I indicated the amount I had and he said go. I went down, and the plane had landed a while ago. The luggage had not arrived, and seemed to be something that would take time. I looked at the run down airport and recalled the "3alamy" name they had up there and felt like laughing. I met a young man from Egypt, a consultant in biomedical engineering. He was there on work and we chatted to kill time. Almost 30mins or so had passed and no sight of bags. Everyone was starting to get edgy. Finally I got a hold of my bags and started to think of finding a hotel.

Yes, I actually couldn't sort out accommodation before hand and flew in without arrangements, I just had a number of a hotel that I knew had rooms. I called and they were available. I changed money and took a cab to town.

A start to a long trip around the Middle east

Well it was Friday evening, I was in Cairo Airport, to begin a trip to 10 different countries in the Middle East. My first destination, Tripoli Libya. I had tried for a long period to organize my travel trip, but I failed miserably. Email seems to be un-directional in this region. I guess I can't really complain here since I am guilty as all. As time was starting to be of the essence, I decided to just take the plane and GO. The travel agent arranged my first trip to go on a North African adventure, and the starting point, Libya.

I stood in the very short line waiting my turn to check in my luggage. As I looked for a trash can and came back, a guy walking from one counter to the other (and mind you he saw me) though it was an opportunity to bump the line. I objected, and told him it was not right and I am there first. He came up with the lamest of excuses, that it is empty and there is no need to do this. He was libyan from his accent, and his excuse even got me going crazier. That was exactly the lamest excuse you can ever use. If it is free then stand in the ..... line and wait your turn. If it isn't free then stand in the .... line and wait your turn.

I boarded the airport, an Egypt Air flight number MS831 to Tripoli, Libya. My last experience with Egypt Air was not that great, but that was in 1998. Now in 2006, I was not sure that it would be any better. I was surprised, the plane was well kept (Until I tried to open the tray, and the sloppiness of Egypt just spilled out) and very new. The crew seemed experienced and professional. Only at the end of the flight did I learn that this is was not the regular plane on this trip. It was actually its first trip. The large number of passengers made them use this plane. I guess I was starting to feel I am on a lucky spell. The next days of this trip will certainly validate this.